I’ve always fancied myself as a bit of a hippie–a huge fan of the music, writing, and art of the 60’s and early 70’s. As a result of that fascination, I went back a little further, reading Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road” and some of the poems of Allen Ginsburg. That got me started on an interest in the “Beat Generation.” My daughter, who lives in San Francisco, knowing my interest, planned a “Beat” tour of the city as a Mother’s Day gift for me.
A little background: The Beat Generation authors are generally thought to include William S. Burroughs, Lucien Carr, Allen Ginsburg, Herbert Huncke and Jack Kerouac. The men met in NYC in 1944 and later most of the group ended up in San Francisco where they became associated with the San Francisco Renaissance.
Kerouac was the one who introduced the phrase “Beat Generation” to describe the underground youth movement in NYC that quickly spread across the country and was the precursor to the hippie movement of the 60’s. Herb Caen of the San Francisco Chronicle originated the term “beatnik.”
Most of the highlights of a Beat tour of the city are in North Beach. Start your tour at Jack Kerouac Alley which runs along the south side of City Lights Bookstore (your next stop) and connects North Beach with Chinatown. You’ll find plaques, tiles, and signs along the very short street.
Go around the corner to 261 Columbus Avenue and you’ll find the iconic City Lights Bookstore. City Lights was founded in 1953 by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti. Ferlinghetti is known for defending Ginsburg against obscenity charges after publishing Ginsburg’s controversial book “Howl.”
City Lights is compact, crammed with books (and patrons), and feels a bit holy. Be sure to go upstairs. It’s now the poetry room and the place where readings and signings are held.
Next up, The Beat Museum. Located at 540 Broadway, the museum was founded in 2006 by Jerry Cimino, a Beat enthusiast. You’ll find a wide range of Beat-related memorabilia and photographs including an “On the Road” exhibit. The day I was there, my daughter and I were the only ones in the museum for most of our stay. We wandered freely through the exhibits for about two hours before spending some time in the gift shop. The shop has a nice collection of Beat literature, awesome pins that make great souvenirs, and an unexpected and wide-ranging collection of records for sale.
After the museum, it’s time for people watching and a drink at the Vesuvio Cafe. Vesuvio is right across the street from City Lights at 255 Columbus Avenue. According to the cafe’s website, the iconic bar is a “historical monument to jazz, poetry, art and the good life of the Beat Generation.” Order a “Swinging Beat,” a delicious combination of vodka, fresh lime, pomegranate and Cointreau and then sit back and take in the atmosphere.
A Beat tour of San Francisco is a fun way to spend an afternoon. Make sure you pick up a copy of “On the Road” or another of the Beat writers’ books at either City Lights or the Beat Museum to keep the vibe going after you get home!
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